Scott Copeland’s Mad Max MFP Pursuit Interceptor

Fere’s my Aoshima “Road Warrior” Interceptor converted into a “Mad Max MFP Pursuit Interceptor” using the A/FX conversion kit. I had built a RC version of the beat up weathered “RW” version, but had always wanted a shiny “production” version of the car like in the first film.

The A/FX kit is nicely cast and fit well with the Aoshima Interceptor body. You have to position and wet sand the trunk spoiler carefully to blend it in with the body spoilers, but otherwise it’s a piece of cake. It doesn’t include the rear window, I cut a piece of clear vacu-formed plastic to fit.

The Aoshima kit is nicely made with a ton of details, but has a few faults. The paint job indicated in the instructions is a bit off for fanatics, and the tires are a bit on the bland side. Also, the chrome plated parts are inaccurate, on the real Interceptor (a converted Ford Falcon) only the top of the hood of the blower is bright chrome. I stripped them with Easy Off and repainted everything with MM metal colors, both buffable and normal. The interior seats and dash are Kylon semi-gloss black from a can, sprayed into a jar then shot thru my airbrush. I think it’s a nice leather/vinyl textured look. I detailed the dashboard with the nice decals and drybrushed it with MM steel to bring out the raised detail. The police light was shot on the inside with Alclad transparent blue, then I sprayed the outside with Future. I also used Future on the various dials and gauges, while I had it out I dipped the windshield, headlight covers, and my scratch built rear window, I think it makes them look more real, a technique I learned on the board.

The body was shot with MM gloss back thru the airbrush. I used three light coats polishing between each with LMG polishing cloths and sponges. They really make getting a smooth finish easier, I had some slight orange peel on the roof with the first coat, the LMG pads smoothed it right out and second and third went on smooth. Then I sprayed it with two coats of Future. After that cured I made some frisket masks and sprayed the matte black portions with some craft acrylic flat black I had left over from another project. Then I masked the gloss parts and hit the matte parts with a light coat of Dullcoate. BTW, this takes longer than it sounds, the LMG kit recommended at least two days after painting before using it to let the paint cure. If you use frisket save your mask for later.

I ordered a set of Shabo 1/24 dry transfer tire lettering, they really bring the tires to life though they are a bit tricky to apply. Fortunately Shabo is very generous with spares on their sheets.

I made the license plate from .012 sheet styrene, then applied the MFP decal. The body decals were applied and sealed with Future. If you saved your matte mask there’s less risk of the future turning your flat black to glossy black, which is real easy to do.

I took my time with it, and think it really came out nice. Aoshima should have included parts for both versions, but at least the A/FX kit took out some of the gruntwork!

Scott Copeland

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